From June 7 to October 12, MUDE – Museum of Design, in Lisbon, presents “Vivienne Westwood: O Salto da Tigresa (The Tigress’s Leap)”, a tribute to the iconic British fashion designer who revolutionised contemporary fashion.

Curated by fashion historian and researcher Anabela Becho, the exhibition draws on the concept of the “Tiger’s Leap” by German philosopher Walter Benjamin to explore how Vivienne Westwood (1941–2022) looked to the past to reinvent the present and affirm her aesthetic and political identity.

“Vivienne Westwood: O Salto da Tigresa” brings together around 50 pieces – including garments, accessories, illustrations, photographs and books – from the Francisco Capelo Collection, part of MUDE’s holdings, as well as from institutional and private collections. The selection spans from the 18th century to the early 21st century, highlighting Westwood’s relationship with tradition and her distinctive approach to fashion history.

The exhibition reveals key aspects of Westwood’s thought and creative practice: her subversive use of iconic British cultural elements such as tartan and tweed; her reinterpretation of traditional tailoring and historical garments like the crinoline, bustle (or tournure) and corset; her masterful construction techniques; and her fascination with history – even during the punk years, when she and Malcolm McLaren pioneered a raw, irreverent form of street fashion.

The exhibition also highlights Westwood’s activism. Over several decades, she used her fashion shows as platforms for political and environmental engagement. A fierce critic of fast fashion, she was a vocal campaigner against climate change and founder of the Climate Revolution movement.

From the rebellious spirit of her King’s Road shop in London to the international catwalks, Vivienne Westwood’s aesthetic was always shaped by non-conformity. A punk icon, she created one of the Sex Pistols’ most provocative T-shirts, depicting Queen Elizabeth II with a safety pin through her lips or with the words “God Save the Queen” obscuring her eyes and mouth. Even so, she was honoured by the monarch herself: in 1992 with the Order of the British Empire for her contributions to fashion and the arts, and in 2006 with the title of Dame.

“Vivienne Westwood: O Salto da Tigresa” offers a multifaceted portrait of one of the most influential figures in 20th-century fashion, celebrating the legacy of a designer who made rebellion, culture and craftsmanship the cornerstones of her singular voice.

PHOTO: Luísa Ferreira / MUDE

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