The result of the beat by be@t innovation program created by BCSD Portugal - Conselho Empresarial para o Desenvolvimento Sustentável - was presented at the 61st edition of Lisbon Fashion Week.
The purpose of beat by be@t is to stimulate creativity for eco-design and eco-engineering in the textile and fashion industry in Portugal. It was designed throughout the year and within the great mission of the be@t textiles community — led by Citeve - Centro Tecnológico do Têxtil e do Vestuário, supported by PRR - Plano de Recuperação e Resiliência — that, committed to the transition to a sustainable Bioeconomy, launched a challenge to fashion designers and the national specialized industry, to join in creating circular and innovative solutions.
The six chosen candidates, among the two dozen creatives who registered online, formed a team with six SMEs and workshops/webinars designed by the BCSD Portugal fashion team, in different areas of sustainability management, as well as mentoring. The finalists were chosen by a jury made up of members from BCSD Portugal, CITEVE and ModaLisboa and a recognized and experienced national designer.
Partner of BCSD Portugal in this beat by be@t innovation program, from the very beginning, ModaLisboa was present throughout the entire process, particularly in supporting fashion designers. This collaboration culminated in the presentation of the six final proposals at the BCSD Portugal stand at the 61st edition of Lisboa Fashion Week, and the subsequent election of the winning team.
Manel Baer x Lurdes Sampaio SA, with the project “A Bloom Amidst Shadows”, won the first edition of beat by be@t, will benefit from exclusive training and events of beat from be@t 2024 edition’s program, and receive consultancy to support the entry of their projects into the market. The projects “Ecru” by Carla Pontes x Empresa Têxtil Nortenha and “NoWaste” by Marta Neto x Trot by Trotinete Lda received honorable mentions.
MANEL BAER X Lurdes Sampaio
WINNER
Manel Baer holds a degree in Fashion Design from the Faculdade de Arquitetura da Universidade de Lisboa. Since graduating and his debut fashion show in the first edition of ‘Ponte`, he has been working as a Designer in his namesake brand. His work has an experimental and expressive profile, drawing inspiration from nature and humanity, which are increasingly integrated into his pieces through a circular mindset.
Lurdes Sampaio SA is a Portuguese company, established in 1990, focused on offering a wide range of knits. Its philosophy allows it to be at the forefront of innovation, in terms of both materials and finishings, where sustainability is always present. The collections are a combination of fashion trends and inspiration from stimuli of the surrounding environment.
PROJECT:
“A Bloom Amidst Shadows” results from the combination of technology and the upcycling of waste, giving rise to a new textile material. The mesh was created based on a thorough analysis of the textile waste composition, from where a first layer was cut in the chosen pattern, and subsequently, the remaining layers were joined. To finish, a brushing process was used giving the mesh its unique appearance. A common knit is transformed into a sustainable masterpiece, from which new garments will be created.
CARLA PONTES X Empresa Têxtil Nortenha
HONORABLE MENTION
Carla Pontes holds degrees in Product Design (ESAD) and Fashion Design (MODATEX). In 2012, she won the Portugal Fashion young creators competition where she continued to showcase collections until 2019. The awards and international appearances strengthen her commitment to her eponymous brand. Since 2018, she has been reinforcing her choices for slow and purposeful fashion. She explores installation formats and gradually transforms/exchanges catwalks into/for galleries.
ETN is a Portuguese, multi-sector export company, that produces for internationally renowned brands. With 70 years of experience in the global market, it is known for its professionalism, quality, confidentiality, and close relationship with its clients. Its ability to innovate and adapt to the needs of new consumers in terms of design, social responsibility and sustainability, underscores the relevance of Empresa Têxtil Nortenha.
PROJECT:
Developed for the purpose of teaching, “ECRU” enables the creation of multiple lifecycles for the same textile material. It learns from craftsmanship, explores transformation, and empowers the individual with leisure and time. It takes shape in numbered and limited DIY kits as it utilizes nothing more than surplus materials, from both the textile and cardboard industries. These kits offer a diverse collection of pieces that we can transform according to the seasons, desires, or memories.
DIANA LOPES X Bloomati by Carvema
Diana Lopes, the designer behind the brand 'POPPY by DianaLopes,' learned to sew at the age of 8. She has always been captivated by handcrafted details, a heritage from her grandmother. She graduated in Fashion Design from Escola de Moda de Lisboa, where she discovered her passion for children's fashion. In 2022, she won the first prize in the children's fashion category of the 'Imagine the Etikway' competition and specialized in Fashion Marketing at the Lisbon School of Design.
Founded in 2017, Bloomati is the result of an internationalization effort by Carvema Têxtil, Lda, a robust company in the Portuguese textile market, established in 1974. Specializing in the process of dyeing and fabric finishing, its mission is to offer not only a variety of innovative finishes, but also a collection of knitted fabrics produced with sustainable fibers.
PROJECT:
“Re.GROWth” is a project developed to counter the rapid disposal of children's clothing. Through pleats and ties, the child can have the autonomy to alter their garment and adjust it to their size, as they grow. Additional services are included, such as the option to return the item so that it can be reused by another child, repaired, or recycled. It is a garment without sewing accessories, making it easier to recycle for a second life.
LAÍS KOHAN & IVIS AGUIAR X TMR
Born in Brazil, Lais Kohan holds a master’s degree in Textile and Fashion from the University of São Paulo. Currently, she is pursuing a Ph.D. in Materials Engineering at the University of Minho. Lais has more than 8 years of experience in both the market and research in the field of technical textiles, sustainable materials, and composites development.
Ivis Aguiar was born in Brazil and holds a bachelor’s degree in economics from UFV. He is currently enrolled in the second year of the master’s program in Textile Product Design and Marketing at the University of Minho. Since completing his undergraduate degree, he has expanded his knowledge in textile materials, demonstrating a special interest in biomedical textiles and the development of products and accessories based on eco-design principles.
TMR is a Portuguese company, founded in 1998, with sustainability and social responsibility as its strategic pillars, making it a reference in apparel production in Portugal. The company has been developing a new category, sportswear, leveraging its knowledge and experience as an entry into the sportswear industry. In 2022, it was recognized as an SME leader by the Portuguese National Innovation Agency.
PROJECT:
Just like in the marine world, everyday life in cities presents challenges that require speed, versatility, and the ability to adapt to dynamic environments. The “HyPer Octopus” is a waterproof coat designed for urban life, capable of disassembling and regenerating itself through its magnetic closures. Like an octopus, it incorporates everything we need to have at hand such as cell phones, watches, and a calendar, while providing security features such as an air tag, anti-pickpocket pocket and even reflective fabric.
MARTA NETO x Trot
HONORABLE MENTION
A graduate in Fashion Design, Marta Neto was born in Alentejo. The strong Islamic influences and ancient techniques like weaving continue to influence and inspire her creative work. She has worked at Inditex and with renowned names in the industry, such as Alexander McQueen and Hussein Chalayan, experiences that have left a mark on her aesthetic DNA. The influence of nature and the concept of 'slow fashion' have become central points in her work."
Founded in 1992, Trotinete, Lda is on a mission to create high-quality uniforms with innovative and sustainable solutions, designed to help its clients reinforce their brand identity and promote the comfort, well-being, and safety of their employees. The company specializes in school uniforms under the Trotinete brand and corporate uniforms under the Trot brand.
PROJECT:
The 'NoWaste' project is built on the pillars of rethinking, recycling, and reusing. Waste is transformed into valuable pieces through the upcycling process, turning trash into simple luxury, where tradition and ancient textile knowledge replace mass production. Trot's textile waste has been rethought and repurposed to create a line of modern, unique, and more sustainable aprons. The project stems from a new vision of the production process, emphasizing waste and resource reduction and resulting in an innovative and versatile textile base applicable to various segments."
PAULA TOMAZI x Filasa
Paula Tomazi holds a degree in Fashion Design and specializes in Creative Markets. With experience in various areas of the textile and apparel industry, she has accumulated knowledge and achieved results over time. She conducts research and engages in projects where zero waste is applied following the principles of eco-design, aiming to reduce textile waste. She believes in the power of transformation and the possibility of making a difference.
Founded in 1986, FILASA is a Portuguese spinning company committed to delivering quality and excellence. Initially focused on producing 100% cotton yarns, it now offers a variety of materials across various spinning systems, including cellulosic, natural, and synthetic fibers. Furthermore, the company actively seeks sustainable solutions to ensure a better future for generations to come, prioritizing environmental and social balance.
PROJECT:
The "Organic Puzzle" project is born out of the desire to reduce textile waste in every stage of garment production, from fiber to the product's assembly. Waste occurs in fiber production, there is an excess of yarn in knit/fabric production, and leftover fabric fragments remain in the garment assembly process. This project aims to make use of this waste resulting from the material that was chosen – milk-based viscose – a sustainable and biodegradable fiber sourced from repurposed food waste.