FRIDAY, 9 OCTOBER, 6.00 PM
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CROMA: Where colour begins
CROMA is Adolfo Domínguez’s new Spring/Summer 2027 collection. A proposal that places colour at the centre of its creative research, approaching it through three dimensions: scientific, material and emotional.
The collection begins with a simple question: what, really, is colour? This inquiry led the design team to study its physical properties and discover an idea as surprising as it is revealing: colour does not exist as an intrinsic quality of objects. What we perceive as colour is the part of light that a surface reflects rather than absorbs. A tennis ball is not yellow; it reflects that wavelength and absorbs the rest. In the same way, a yellow garment does not add colour to the world: it reflects part of the light so that our eyes perceive it as such.
This reflection brought the creative process into the construction of the fabrics themselves. Through natural dyeing workshops, the team experimented with fibres and pigments to understand how matter alters light and, with it, our perception of colour. An artisanal process, close to alchemy, in which colour ceases to be a surface and becomes the result of a dialogue between light, fabric and the person observing it.
Each designer developed their own interpretation of this idea at ÁGORA, Adolfo Domínguez’s creative laboratory. The result is a collection that moves between scientific observation and emotional memory. The childhood kaleidoscope reappears in the form of embroidery and geometric patchworks; everyday objects with a strong chromatic identity inspire prints that evoke a collective memory, from the orange of a traffic cone to the green of a scouring pad or the yellow of a tennis ball. Colour thus becomes a shared language, capable of awakening memories even before it is consciously recognised.
CROMA’s palette begins with raw, neutral and black tones, illuminated by pastels created by desaturating primary colours and increasing their luminosity. Greens, pinks, blues and, above all, a soft, radiant yellow shape a fresh proposal that transforms according to the way light falls upon it. This research translates into light, transparent and iridescent materials — gauzes, organzas, taffetas and crinkled fabrics — that filter, reflect and nuance colour through layers and translucent veils.
The silhouettes alternate between straight, deconstructed tailoring and drop-waist dresses and skirts inspired by the 1920s, while shorts and Bermuda shorts bring lightness to the collection. Key pieces include trench coats, waistcoats, bombers and organza trousers, conceived as layers that transform the perception of colour; scarves used as structural elements in dresses, shirts and skirts; geometric patchworks inspired by the kaleidoscope; and embroidered and sequinned applications that intensify the dialogue between garment and light.
With CROMA, Adolfo Domínguez proposes a reflection on the way we see. A collection that understands colour not as a certainty, but as a phenomenon in constant transformation, where light, matter and perception come together to shape each piece.
