joana duarte behen

DESIGNER

BÉHEN

LAB

SS25

YOU’RE MEAN

BÉHEN's SS25 collection comes as a response to the AW24 collection: ‘I Don't Want You’, and therefore ‘You're Mean.

The expression És má" ("You're mean") was found on a Portuguese traditional plate, interestingly one of the references from BÉHEN’s first collection, "Talvez Te Escreva" SS21 (‘Maybe I'll Write You’). The brand's increasingly intensive ethnographic research allows and encourages the constant crossing of references — an intersection that is as real as it is symbolic of past, present and future — and the themes of each collection also build an intimate dialogue. As in any love, the words are spoken sometimes with tenderness, sometimes with provocation, sometimes with affirmation. ‘You're Mean’ arrived as a quick, fulminating and impulsive rebuttal. With a touch of mockery and a touch of bad temper. Like the hot season, it's light and unequivocal - a thorn that, like the dish, is surrounded by roses.

As if to soften it (the smile after the offence), the brand added traditional Portuguese kisses, the result of the brand's ongoing research into bread, dough and traditional sweets, all of which are closely linked to the feminine and the spiritual.

Through embroidery and textile manipulation techniques, the core and mission of the brand, BÉHEN recreates these traditional elements, bringing them to both everyday pieces and demi-couture designs, where time once again becomes a central element. All this without losing sight of upcycling, a technique that BÉHEN has mastered since its first presentation. The impact of raw materials and manufacturing processes has been one of the brand's priorities: with the exception of pieces made from antique textiles, the remaining materials are crafted from natural fibres such as cotton, organic cotton, and linen.

Developed by many hands in the Lisbon studio, this collection includes pieces that were embroidered in-house, reinforcing the demi-couture work that the brand has been focusing on. In addition to the artisans, ‘És Má’ collaborates with a wide network of partners throughout the country who value exceptional quality and craftsmanship, such as Calçado Penha, Elav, Calvelex, Troficolor and YKK.

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